Fri, Jul 22

We had a trip planned for khardungla pass today. We got ready and had a great parantha breakfast. Lawang came to greet us at 8:30 - the jeep was ready. we headed out.

The journey to khardungla is around 39 km and one and half hour long. The ascent was steady. Out driver was a tibetan whose parents had migrated to jalpaiguri - he was born there and was an indian citizen. He seemed to think that independence was a distant cry. He lives in one of the refugee settlements here. Drives a jeep, and goes sells tibetan stuff elsewhere, including delhi, at other times.

on way to khardungla, we came to a check post where three foreigners were stranded. They had hitched a ride uptil here and wanted to hitch another ride to nubra (100 km further from khardungla) - free ride has its price I guess.

We reached khardungla at around 10 - khardungla is the highest motorable pass in the world at 5604 m. Its a mini tourist stop with jeeps and bikes, and even a sovenier shop! I and pawan decides to climb the short peak next to ktop. Kshitij was feeling some headache so he stayed back. The climb was short and fun - getting on the top rock was exciting and at the same time scary - you are standing there at the top with only one rock beneath you - that must have taken us to around 5625 m or 18500 ft. Both our camera batteries seem to have drained out at that temprature! Pawan managed to get last few shots out of his before we came down.








At the base, we met an israeli guy who had been in india for past 6 months and planned for another 4 months. He mentioned that israeli tourists were amongst one of the larger ones in india. He had himself served in military, and was now taking a travel break. He had come with ten thousand dollars and had bought a bike for his india trip - he expected to spend around sixk over ten months, and believed that india offers some of the best value in tourism.

Back down at khardungla, we came across the hitchhiking group. They had come with someone who was going to nubra, but had unfortunately cancelled the onward plans now! Go, find another truck!

We got some momentoes and then headed down. Kshitij and our cameras were still dizzy. On our way back, we went to shanti stupa near leh city.

Kshitij relaxed in the hotel while I and pawan went out for food to dreamland hotel. The service seemed poor but the food was good and we had lots of it. We then came back to the hotel.

Ashes was on and the first test was very interesting so we switched on the tv. After some time Lawang came in - he was visiting his group in the adjoining hotel so he thought he'd drop by. He talked a lot about his business, his danish boss and all. And while at it, he kept throwing some pearls of wisdom - sample this - ''pvr in delhi is a hippy place''. ''what? No way''. ''what else! Girls there wear such short skirts, it must be a hippy place''!

He had interest in travel and planned to take a month off later this year to go visit south india. He aspired to have his travel business but wanted to work with a company and slowly establish the links. He also told us about all the hindi movie stars keep coming to leh but noone gives them importance here.

We then asked him where we should go for dinner and he suggested we go to ibex bar and restaurant. He also offered to join us there.

So we met back at ibex at 8 and ordered our drinks - beer seems to be the most preferred drinks here and good quality liqour is otherwise not available. Anyway, we got started. The evening was interesting with mostly Lawang talking. Pearls kept flowing - sample a couple more - ''in mumbai, dogs wag their tails up and down instead of sideways''. ''why?''.''there is no space in that city to wag your tail sideways''. Or this one - ''i don't like the fact that in army an officer has to eat alone and he can't eat with a subedar - an army officer and a bhangi are the only two people who have to eat alone''. Then, Lawang had his choice of jokes as he loosened up.

He also mentioned that they do parties and rafting on full moon nights (as was yesterday) - so we asked him if we can do something tomorrow - let's see what he comes up with.

He was very excited by the fact that he won't wake up till 11 tomorrow. Good night and sleep well.